GLOCK 17/22 OPEN DIVISION CONVERSION

by: Josh Mazzola of Team AR15Targets

This thread/article has been written in an attempt to provide shooters with a step by step analysis and discussion of converting a stock Glock 17/22 to an Open Glock.  The following is my opinions on the matter based on my experiences, nothing more.

General Points of Discussion

What is Open Division? - Much like in racing, in the world of competitive shooting there are different divisions which allow different modifications to both the shooter's firearm and gear.  Open division is basically the, "no holds barred" division and almost all modifications you can think of are allowed; from red dots and compensators to custom milling on slides.

World Champion Jerry Miculek shooting his Open 2011 at
the 2012 Arkansas Multigun Championship.

What does it normally cost to get an Open-gun setup? - While this is an extremely subjective point of discussion, open guns normally range in price from $2000.00 at the absolute cheapest, to upwards of $5000 or more.  When you start adding in magazines, gear, etc. the price just keeps going up.  It is definitely the most expensive division in the practical shooting sports.

How does the Glock stack up in Open? - Most Open-guns are built on the 2011 (juiced up 1911) platform.  So many rightfully ask, "how well can a striker fired polymer gun fare in this division?" Well the answer is, we really can't gather accurate stats on the topic.  Very few Open shooters shoot Glocks, so to make a direct comparison on which platform is the best based on what the winning shooters are using, would be a flawed interpretation of data.  With this said, the fact that not many Open shooters use Glocks definitely counts as a mark against Glocks in the Open division.  Despite this fact, Dave Sevigny, formerly of Team Glock, was an absolute beast in Open with his customized Glock, and the new Glock team-shooter, KC Eusebio, is equally as impressive (having just won the 2012 Ohio State Open Championship with a Glock).  So what it comes down to, in my opinion, is that simply put, the shooter makes the gun.  However, if you have mad cash to burn, the 2011 would probably be the more "appropriate" choice for a pure Open build.

What are the differences between a DIY Open Glock and a true custom built Open Glock? - I referenced Dave Sevigny and KC Eusebio's custom Glocks above, so let's discuss the differences between the guns they are shooting, and something you can put together at home.  What you are going to be doing does not equate to the guns that these guys have, but then again, you aren't doing this conversion with the hopes to become the Open champion with the gun right?  We are going to be piecing together parts, we are not going to be perfectly blending each part together.  This equates to sloppier tolerances, and more chance for failures in a DIY gun than a custom gun which has been tuned by a professional smith (who has most likely done hundreds of builds).

So then why DIY? - With all that said, a DIY Glock might sound like a lose-lose.  But the purpose of this at-home conversion as I see it, is primarily for creating a "water tester".  By undertaking this project, we can create a gun that gives us a chance to shoot in Open when we want, and see if it's something we are truly interested in.  Not to mention we can swap back to stock configuration very easily if we don't care for Open without any permanent alterations having been made to our weapon. Another reason you might attempt this conversion is because it can provide a way for you to get your significant-other into shooting.  Lady shooters, don't be upset, but sometimes women who don't shoot are hesitant to do so because they simply don't like the feel of recoil.  This conversion will cut down on some of the more unpleasant parts of shooting, and this can be an inviting way to convince someone (man or woman) to come out and try shooting or the action shooting sports.  This project can also be completely for purposes devoid of the competition realm, and moreover be designed as a way for someone to simply juice up a stock gun that they otherwise don't use, giving them something fun to shoot with their buddies in the backyard.

So what's the total cost of your DIY Open Glock? - the modifications you will be making should cost you about $850.00 at the higher end.  This price does not include the cost of the stock G17/22.  If you don't already own a Glock, I'd strongly suggest looking into a used Open 2011 or custom Open Glock if you're really wanting to get an Open gun.  The price difference might not be as horrible as you expect if you have to buy the stock Glock on top of the price of the modification parts we'll be purchasing.  This conversion is very much direct at those who have already spent some of their overall budget on a stock Glock.

Top: G17 Open Conversion
Bottom: G34 Production Division

What parts will I need to install/purchase? - The $850.00 I just mentioned will get you a new: trigger, firing pin spring kit, magwell, slide racker, RDS, threaded barrel, guide rod and recoil spring, and compensator.  Please note, not all of these items are required to make the gun function as an Open gun, so you can save money as you go through your build by eliminating parts which are a luxury and not a necessity.  These are also not all of the parts you could end up buying.  What I've tried to do is bring together the parts I feel are most important and present that information to you based on my experience.

Should I mount my optic on the slide or on a frame mount? - For the purposes of this build, put the optic on the slide to start.  Not only is this cheaper for now, but it also keeps the optic where you're used to seeing your sights.  In the future, if you
decide to go with a full open setup, you can easily purchase a frame mount (if you decide you need one) that can accommodate the optic which you will buy for this project.  While some people say you can't track the dot when it rides the slide, I haven't found that to be the case, the dot rises as I would expect and falls back to my point of aim as I would expect.  With this said, there are certainly benefit to the frame mounted optic which we will discuss later.

JP Micro-Dot mounted on the Slide of a G17.

Will I need a new holster or magazine pouches? - Based on which holsters you already own and which 

compensator you decide to go with, you might be able  to make an Open Glock which still fits in standard holsters and use them until you decide you want to invest in a race holster (which can be quite pricey).  A holster with an open muzzle-end that maintains the same profile as the Glock slide and a compensator which maintains the same profile as the Glock slide will both be required if you want your holster to still fit your Glock once your modifications are complete.  The standard G-Code holsters are a good example of holster that will work.  You won't need new magazine pouches until you decide for sure if you want to compete in Open.

G-Code Holster with Open Muzzle - Carver 4 Port Comp.

Can I just buy the Jager Open Conversion kit? - Sure you can!  It has most of the parts you need, but it doesn't necessarily save you money part for part and you can't pick and choose which manufacturer's parts you want.  The difference in price from the Jager kit to the $850.00 budget we've created is that we are also purchasing a trigger, firing pin spring kit, magwell, and slide racker on top of the base parts.  Remember, you don't need all these parts so choose what's best for you.

What are the risks to trying this? - Like anything in the world of modifying guns, there are risks to trying this project (which I take no responsibility for).  It's important to mention that you might not be able to get the gun to function with a comp based on the ammo you use.  You might break parts during installation or removal.  You might lose reliability that you are accustomed to with your Glock.  You might decide it was a bad idea and not like shooting with a red dot on your handgun, etc etc.  But most importantly, there is the possibility that you are not familiar enough with the fit and function of the action of the weapon, and that you might end up seriously damaging the weapon or not assembling it correctly with the tolerances required for it to operate safely.  Be sure to be safe while undertaking this project.  If something doesn't seem right or feel right, don't try shooting it.

Frame Modifications

Step 1 - Frame stippling / Addition of Grip - This step is totally based on personal preference.  I've found that shooting with a textured grip gives me far more control over the gun, specifically as my hands begin to sweat. We can add grip tape in key areas, add a grip sleeve, or stipple the frame to achieve the desired grip effect. Stippling the frame, in my opinion, produces the cleanest most professional looking results.  Again, this modification is totally based on personal preference and is no way required as part of the build.  Your comfort level with taking a hot-iron to your gun will also come into play here.  While it doesn't take a whole lot of skill to produce a crude frame texturing, mastering a professional, clean stipple-job, will take practice.

Stippling and trigger-guard undercutting on a G17 Frame

Screw locations for magwell installation

Step 2 - Magwell installation - Once we've textured the frame (if we choose to do so), we can add on a magwell.  In Open, the general rule is, the heavy the better in this department.  The more mass you have, the more the weight keeps the gun from recoiling.  However, if you own any Glock magwell already, there really isn't need to buy a new one for the purposes of this conversion.  For example, I own a standard weight Dawson Ice Magwell which I use in IDPA ESP Class, so I can use that despite the fact that there are MANY better options for an Open gun, including the heavier version from Dawson.  Brands to consider include Glockworx, SJC, Carver, Dawson, etc.  Installation of most magwells is easy; you simply slide the adapter into the frame, secure it through the whole in the rear of the grip, and then attached the magwell via screws.

Do I need to buy magazine basepads? - When using a magwell, depending on which make and model you choose, you might need to swap out the basepads on your magazines.  For the purposes of this build, I'd suggest trying to find a magwell (like the Dawson) which doesn't require that you do so.  In Open, you are going to want to take advantage of the higher magazine capacity allowed with the addition of some magazine extensions, but that's not really necessary right now.  You can use factory mags until you make a more accurate decision on what we want to do in terms shooting Open. This will help save you some serious money; magazine extensions aren't cheap.

Frame Modifications Continued and the Transition to Slide Modifications

Step 3 - Trigger and Firing Pin Spring replacements - A key aspect of any competition gun is the trigger.  A lightened trigger pull with limited pre-travel and no over-travel is key to really pushing the speed of the weapon and exploiting the weapon's accuracy at range.  The choice of trigger here, much like the frame texturing, comes down in large part to personal preference.  I like a trigger which has a very solid wall and a crisp breaking point.  I don't like a lot of the Glock triggers out there that tout the claims of being super light, because for the most part, these triggers are like pulling through a big bit of pre-travel with no real trigger wall.  Again, this is totally personal preference, but I've found a combination which I find to be extremely effective.  The Haley Skimmer trigger with a lightened striker spring of 4.0lbs and lightened firing pin safety spring seems to be the best combination for what I'm looking for.  Other triggers to consider include those from Glockworx, GlockTriggers, Vanek, Carver, etc. as well as simply just replacing a few springs on the factory trigger.  The Firing Pin Spring is an interesting animal; make it too heavy and the trigger is stiff, make it too light and it might not ignite your primer.  When choosing a weight for your FPS, I'd suggest testing several variations between 3.5-5.0 lbs and seeing what work for you.  The addition of a lightened striker might be necessary depending on which spring/primers combination you are using.  A lightened striker allows you to get more reliable ignition with a lighter spring because the spring has less mass to propel into the primer.  Reference Nic Taylor's excellent video on installing a new trigger and spring kit

Step 4 - The Slide Racker - Most slide rackers mount in the dovetail of the rear sight, but you are going to need the dovetail for your red dot, so you will need a slide racker that mounts in a different position.  The Tactical Supply Depot slide racker available through Brownells, is a cheap and effective slide racker which fits our restrictions on mounting.  It is a replacement end-plate with a racker attachment. You can install this part just as you would install the standard end plate on the slide (be sure the racker is facing the right direction based on which hand you fire with).  The slide racker will allow you to rack the slide more effectively, especially once you have your optic mounted or if you ever decide to switch to a frame mounted optic.

Tactical Supply Depot Glock Slide Racker

Slide Modifications

Step 5 - Sight Removal - It's time now to install your red dot sight. First, you must remove the iron sights from the gun.  You can keep the front sight on if you really want to (or don't have a Glock front sight tool), but removing it improves the look of the Open setup in my opinion, so I take mine off.  To remove the rear sight, you won't need any special tools, just a small vice, a punch, and a hammer.  If you have a polymer/rubber punch this would be a good option but you can also just tape a standard steal punch.  Ideally, you don't want to damage your iron sights in case you have another application for them or want to put them back on this gun later.  If you have a aftermarket metal sight that simply won't move, you might try using a torch to heat it first.

JPoint aimed at a standard USPSA target
approximately 5' away.

Step 6 - Red Dot Install - Now that you have removed your iron sights, you can install the adapter plate for you red dot.  The proper way to install anything into a dovetail is to fit it, not just hammer it in.  To fit the adapter to the dovetail you: attempt to install it, stop when it begins to bind, hammer it back out and file it lightly along the contacting edge (be sure not to change the angle of the dovetail), reinstall and repeat until the base can be lightly hammered into place.  For more detailed instructions, reference Dave Dawson's video on sight installation.  In the case of some red dots, the JPoint from JP Enterprises included, there won't be a need to "fit" the adapter.  Simply place it in the dovetail, tap it into place, and secure it will setscrews and loctite.  The next step is to screw the red dot down and onto the adapter.  Although  there are many options out there for micro red dots, whatever you do, make sure to buy a reputable brand.  The dot is going to have to withstand significant punishment as it will be cycling with the slide on every pull of the trigger. A sight of anything less than high quality will fail quickly in this application.  Look at the Doctor Optics, CTS, JPoint, Deltapoint, Fastfire, RMR, etc. but note that the prices on these optics will vary.  Consider buying an optic that you might have dual purpose for and that you can use in another application.

Step 7 - Aftermarket barrel - The next thing that you need to finish up your Open build, is an aftermarket barrel with threads.  Lonewolf makes a fairly cost-effective option while KKM Precision makes a more "high quality" option.  Be sure to choose a "drop in" barrel which doesn't require fitting to the slide unless you've had experience fitting barrels in the past or you plan on paying a smith to do it (remember, this is supposed to be out cheap conversion).  Simply install your barrel as you would the factory barrel. 

Aftermarket KKM Barrel with Carver 4 Port Comp.

Step 8 - The Compensator -   The threaded barrel is essential to the build, because the easiest way to compensate a factory Glock with a standard slide, is through the addition of a thread on comp.  The compensator I chose was the Carver 4-Port (10 total ports) comp.  I like the look of this comp and have found it to be extremely effective in terms of recoil reduction for slightly hotter than normal factory ammo (some spring tuning is required to get the gun to run with this comp and ammo selection). It's important to note that when selecting a comp, you should think about what loads you are normally going to be shooting.  If you plan on shooting factory loads or minor power factor, then a less aggressive comp is what you are going to want; if you over-comp the gun, then you can have problems getting it to cycle.  To install the comp, screw it on as far as you can without it binding with the slide and/or guide rod or hitting the end of your threads.  Once you can't turn it anymore, back it off a rotation until it is aligned correctly with the slide.  Lock the comp in place with red loctite or set screws (depending on which comp you've purchased).  Another option is to use plumber's tape (teflon tape) on the threads.  After a few wraps, you can screw the comp on and have it stick in place fairly well.  This is a less permanent option but still effective - (credit to Glockman1000 of the Enos forums for the teflon trick). 

Step 9 - New Guide Rod Assembly - The last thing you will need for this conversion, is a new recoil spring (and guide rod assembly to save the hassle of messing with the stock one).  Remember, we've added weight to the slide, making it harder for the weapon to cycle, as well as added a compensator, also making it harder for the weapon to cycle.  Because of this, we need to drastically reduce the strength of the recoil spring.  Somewhere between a 9-12# spring is normally what is needed for target loads and/or factory loads.  If you are going to shoot hotter loads (to make major power factor in USPSA), consider a spring somewhere between 12-15#.  The actual spring weight that works in your specific gun with your specific ammo is something that will have to be figured out at the range.  Note that flat springs (like ISMI) are said to work better with captured guide rods than round coil springs (like Wolff).  Another important point to make, is that you need to be sure that your weapon returns to battery with the lighter spring.  A lot of times this can be an issue.  Just keep an eye out for it and be aware.  If your weapon doesn't return to battery the gun obviously won't function and can be a serious safety hazard.

Factory Spring removed, lightened spring installed

Step 10 - Tuning - Don't panic if when you go to the range, the gun won't cycle at first.  Remember, you didn't build a combat gun with these modifications, you've built a race gun.  You need to tune the gun and feed it different ammo with different spring combinations to see what works.  Buy a few recoil springs at different weights.  Try them all with the same ammo by loading one round in the magazine.  Start with your heaviest spring and work your way towards your lightest.  Fire the round, and when you find a spring/ammo combination which will consistently lock the slide to the rear, then you've found a spring which is light enough to allow the gun to cycle.  Remember, you can always go lighter than the first spring which works (based on what you like to feel from the recoil impulse) but it will put additional stress on the slide and red dot.  Keep in mind, once you find a spring that works with your ammo, you also need to test that spring further, being sure it can cycle reliably with fully loaded mags, from awkward positions etc, etc.  Don't be eager to shoot fast at first. Take your time and analyze the gun and what's going on, especially the brass ejection patterns, they will tell you a great deal about how fast the slide is reciprocating.

Conclusion:

What are the next modifications I can make if I decide to pursue Open division? - The next most important mod would be to get a frame mount for your optic.  Putting the optic on a frame mount will take it away from where you're used to seeing your sights which will take practice to get used to, but also should allow you to track the dot more easily because it isn't moving with the slide through recoil.  It will also take some of the stress off the optic.  Pick up some extended basepads to increase you magazine capacity.  Pick up some Open style magazine pouches and an Open holster if you don't have one already.

Full Carver Custom Gun with frame mount.  Carver mounts require no modifications to your frame, but require modifications to your holster platform.

I hope everyone who tries this project is successful in their endeavors.  Please feel free to comment and ask any questions you might have.  I'm more than happy to attempt and answer anything in my ability and there are some far more knowledgeable individuals on this board who I'm sure can help.